Duck Paté

Duck pate with chanterelle mushrooms.

Duck pate with chanterelle mushrooms.

Sarah and I attended a fabulously fun wine potluck last night at the home of friends Wendy and John in “lower, lower Piedmont,” which is to say, not Piedmont, and not quite Trestle Glen. Whatever all that means, I don’t know. But the house, and the party, were wonderful. Thanks guys!

I had trouble finding something to make, in part because I spent so much time looking for a great recipe I made for a potluck a couple years back. Frustrated, I finally just decided to make paté, which I often do for wine things. It just works well. Only this time, instead of chicken, I thought I’d make something closer to paté de foie gras, with actual duck liver.

So I braved a shopping trip to North Berkeley’s Hopkins shopping area, despite the fact that the time had slipped late into the busiest part of the shopping day. Parking is notoriously difficult, and navigating the narrow isles of the market is nearly impossible once the place gets busy. But it’s all worth the trouble.

First, I picked up a pound and a quarter of duck livers at one of my favorite food shops, Magnani’s. I thought about getting a hind quarter to throw in as well, but it seemed like it would be too much. And I was interested in getting a pretty smooth result, for which the liver on its own is well suited. Note that these are regular duck livers, not force-fed.

After that, I went to Monterey Market to see what there was mushroom-wise for my concoction. As usual, I ended up with a bunch of stuff I didn’t need, but that I hope we’ll get around to eating this week, like beautiful spring onions and green garlic from Full Belly Farm, and a beautiful organic celeriac. I know, “beautiful celeriac” sounds like a contradiction in terms, but everything’s relative, and this one was surprisingly clean and free of tangled roots, bumps and divots. I checked on the truffles, but I couldn’t quite bring myself to spend $12 on a single small shroom. So, instead I settled on a half pound of California chanterelles.

Finally, I doubled-back into the Country Cheese Coffee Market for no good reason, other than that I can’t pass up a chance to buy some good cheeses. I did hold back this time and picked up only one thing, some wonderful French sheep’s milk feta on sale. And an Americano to go. And a dark chocolate bar. Yumm!

Anyway, after all the recipe hunting and shopping, I went home to start cooking. Once I did, I realized the problem would be that there was not enough to time for the pate to set a good six hours before the party. But it was too late to turn back. So, once it was done I placed it in the freezer for awhile to get it chilled and set. I was worried about it, but it went over quite well and several people asked how to make it. Here was my approach to making this one.

  • 1 stick butter, cut up into ½ inch pieces and spread out on a plate and placed in freezer.

In a saucepan place

  • 1 or 2 celery tops–about ⅓ of  cup worth
  • 12 peppercorns
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 cups water or so, enough to cover the livers

Bring to a boil. Turn down to simmer. Add:

  • 1.25 lbs duck liver

Simmer gently 10 minutes. Do not overcook.
Heat up a saute pan over medium heat and add:

  • 2 Tbl butter
  • ½ cup chopped shallots
  • 1.5 tsps herb de provence

Saute, stirring, about 5 minutes, then add:

  • 2 cloves garlic, minced

Saute another two mintues, add:

  • big splash cognac or brandy

Cook for two or three more minutes.
Use a slotted spoon to remove the duck livers to a food processor fitted with the steel blade, discarding everything else in there. Then add the sauteed shallots et al, and:

  • 1 tsp salt
  • a healthy grinding of black pepper

In the saute pan, melt another:

  • 1 Tbl butter

Then add:

  • 6-8 oz chanterrelle mushrooms sliced.
Saute about 6 to 8 minutes until soft and releasing their liquid. You could splash in some more cognac just for the fun of it. I did. When that is mostly evaporated, remove from heat and set aside to let cool.
In the meantime, begin processing all the ingredients in the processor. Just set the switch to “on”. Get the butter from the freezer and, with the motor running, add the pieces one a time through the feed tube. When all the butter is incorporated, open the top and add the mushrooms. Process again with the mushrooms, but not too much, so they are in small bits. I over did it, and they blended in to the smooth texture, which was OK, too.

Pour into a crock or other container, smooth the top and cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate several hours until it sets and the flavors blend. Remove from fridge and allow to come to room temperature, about 30 minutes, before serving.

Let me know how it goes.

Another Night in the Center of the Universe

Keeping the Flame Alive on Fourth St

zut! dinners

We were so excited we started eating before I got the camera out!

Dinner tonight was at Zut! on Fourth St in Berkeley–to celebrate Rocky’s birthday.  I’ve lost track of how many restaurants have been in this spot, and while it was, of course, remodeled yet again, Zut! really reminds me of the one that got it all started here: Fourth Street Grill. There appears to be some old wood around the banquette we sat in, and I wonder how much if any of the interior was there when it was the Grill.

Sarah and I were practically kids when we first started coming up from Fresno to visit my cousin Tommy in the Bay Area. Often, Tommy would insist on taking us out to dinner, and often it was Fourth Street Grill to which he would his maniacally maneuver 6 series BMW. It’s been over 20 years since those dinners, so I don’t remember all the food details. But I’m pretty sure that was the first time I had Caesar salad with whole leaves, always perfectly coated with tangy dressing and grated parmesan. Perhaps the I’ve ever had. And wonderful little french fries, and the best roasted chicken ever, and fabulous burgers, and…

Tommy loved, LOVED to share good food with his peeps. Nothing made him happier than to take friends and family somewhere and turn them on to his latest discovery of culinary excellence. There were many other wonderful places we went, but Fourth Street was always high on the list of places to go. Thinking about the satisfaction and excitement he felt whenever we ate together makes me miss him so much, all over again.

Tommy would have been content; tonight’s meal was outstanding. Even before our appetizers arrived, we were all loving the bread, and Theo declared it the best bread EVER. Then came the beet salad with feta and mandarin and mint. Fabulous! Next came a bowl of crispy fried smelt with mayo for dipping. They disappeared almost immediately. Although I have to say that to me they didn’t quite live up to what we often got on our last trip to Greece. But I’m not complaining. They were pretty darn good.

Then our entrees came. Theo had a giant cheeseburger off the kids menu ($10), and since he doesn’t really eat french fries, he had Caesar salad on the side instead. I had to QA it, and while it was not  a rival to the old Fourth St Grill Caesar, it was very good. Rocky had seared Ahi with grilled sunchokes, young chickories, treviso, blood orange and dates ($23). It was beautiful, perfectly cooked and ample. Sarah had the halibut with roasted brussel sprouts in lemon, brown butter and capers ($24). Her only complaint was that there was no starch on the plate, but we got a second round of bread to take care of that. She ate every bite on her plate. I had the rotisserie chicken with horseradish mashed potatoes and escarole ($17). It was fabulous. The escarole was perfectly cooked and had just the right acid tang to be the perfect foil for the creamy potatoes. The chicken was very slightly smokey, wonderfully moist and  delicious. But it was both whole halves of a poussin! I would have had to eat through the pain to eat it all. I might have, if I didn’t know we were committed to dessert. Instead, I brought half home for lunch tomorrow. Yum!

Finally, for dessert, we shared a couple of things. Chevre cheesecake with gingersnap crust and blood orange. Outrageous! And also mandarin sorbet with Greek frozen yogurt–like the best 50-50 bar you’ll ever experience. And they made a special little chocolate sundae for Theo.

And before I forget, a nice surprise of the evening was the wonderful Greek wine. The 2008  Santorini, Asirtiko/Athiri, Sigalas ($34) was bright with a hint of gravel, had nice fruit, and was perfect with all the food.

All in all, a wonderful evening sharing good food with the family.

Dingbats and Matadors

Matador and Apartment Building

Matador and Apartment Building

Today is another day of nothingness. But as I wander through piles of photographs that have yet to processed and catalogued, I can’t help but smile when I come across something with as much charm as this. It’s got everything one could want: hollywood junipers, rock facade, decorative concrete blocks, googie styling, and of course a thrashed Matador. Ahhh, Albany.

Lucky me. Either the AMC collector in El Cerrito sold his collection or moved into my neighborhood. Three beat Matadors and a Javelin are constantly showing up parked in different places, trying to avoid the three-day limit on parking before towing happens. They are always somewhere new, but I never seen any of them actually in motion. Maybe he does it with a Star Trek transporter. The only downside is that there are no Gremlins or Pacers. C’mon! Are you a collector or what?

Minimal

I must not think bad thoughts

xpro Neo

xpro Neo

Totally grown up and still not able to deal with my own essentially unphotogenic nature. So, now I’m approaching the problem by making self-portraits. TFT. I thought I could play with the processing and obscure or soften this nature, but so far it seems to just spiral down further. For awhile I tried being super-clean shaven. It helped slightly with the aging that premature gray adds (yessss, it is premature), but not so much with the camera. So then I tried facial hair with quotes. That’s a big FAIL too. Gonna change that in the morning. In any case, I’m now reminded of the time my avant-rock/performance group played a house party  and we had a really bad night, sounded terrible. After we finished and were breaking down, a woman I knew said to me as she walked by, “You shouldn’t have the green light on you.” Why does the super-ego pile on like that?

Photojournalism

SFMOMA Interior

SFMOMA Interior / © neo serafimidis 2011

It was a weekend of photojournalism.

Yesterday, I managed to get to SFMOMA to see the Henri Cartier-Bresson show just before it closes. It was fabulous. I was familiar with a little of his his early stuff, such as ‘Behind Saint Lazare Station, Paris, France’ but really did not know the range and depth of his work. And I was surprised by some images that I had seen before, but did’t know were his, for example, portraits of Sartre and Camus. It was a tremendously inspiring show.

Then I had my own brush with photojournalism this afternoon. I had picked up my mother from her facility and was bringing her to my house for our usual weekend time together. As I pulled out onto San Pablo Ave, the traffic was getting backed up. The reason was that right at the bottom of my street at San Pablo, there was some sort of traffic accident. The police were there but the paramedics were only just coming up behind me.

Pedestrian Hit

Pedestrian Hit / © neo serafimidis 2011

After the fire engine passed, I ducked down a side street and parked. I asked my mother to stay in the car and grabbed my camera. This was a little bit dicey because of her dementia, but she is doing ok lately, and really can’t move fast enough to get very far very fast these days. And I intended to be quick about it.

As I got to the end of the block I could see that they were working on someone lying in the street next to a stopped vehicle. A pedestrian had been hit by car, probably turning left onto San Pablo at this T intersection. I quickly snapped a few shots and ran back to the car. I could see that the person on the ground was able to move a hand, but they were totally facedown on the asphalt.

After getting home, I got my mom settled with some  food and drink and got online to post a breaking story–just what I saw–to the local news site I shoot for occasionally, albany.patch.com. Before long, our awesome editor got the rest of the story from Albany PD and updated it.

My photo results are obviously not to be mentioned in the same breath as Cartier-Bresson. But the lesson of being always ready with camera as one moves through the world, as he was, was reinforced today.

Traffic Court 2

So to return to the saga of the two moving violations, while I was still waiting to hear back from the court regarding my written case over the first ticket, I  had gone over to Mod Lang in El Cerrito to get a couple CDs for Sarah for her birthday (You guys are wonderful, by the way!). It’s not all that far, but I drove because I was running various errands, and I parked right on Fairmont Ave, right near the shop.

When I was leaving I wanted to go back the way I came to go back home and to avoid having to go down to busy San Pablo. Now, a you can see, Fairmont is not a big street. It’s small, about the same size as my very own street. And there were no cars anywhere in either direction. So, almost reflexively, I pulled away from the curb and made a u-turn.  The problem is that Fairmont is striped. Double-yellow. Just as I got the car turned around,  a bicycle cop rode up and got all in my face, looking like I had personally insulted him, and waived me to the curb. I dutifully pulled over. I felt myself going numb with disbelief. When he came to window, he asked me, “Do you know why I stopped you?” I’m pretty sure my response was a silent and curious mixture of autistic vacancy and “what-the-fuck-kind-of-question-is-that” irritation. He asks for my proof of insurance. I don’t have the latest slip in the car, only the previous one which had expired about three weeks previously.  The ticket is written for both the illegal u-turn and the lack of proof of insurance.

Eventually, the courtesy notice comes. I quickly read it over and put it aside. I want to find out what the outcome of the pending case is before I even think about this one. The first ticket is sustained. It makes no sense to fight this one, because I straightforwardly broke the rules. I did it unintentionally, but I did it. So, I’ll pay and be done with it. But I’m going to wait until after Christmas.

Finally, a couple weeks ago I started thinking about paying the fine. I saw that I could do it online, thank god. The only glitch was that I have not heard back from the first court about going to driving school. And the check has not been cashed yet. So, I don’t know whether to pay for traffic school for the second ticket or not. So, I start calling to find out about where my paperwork is for that.

I call several times over the course of two weeks and talk to a few different people. Despite having sent my check for the traffic school in mid-December, there is no record of it at the court. Someone offers to go look the through the backlog on the desk of the person who’s supposed to process those, but is out sick this week. Nothing. The next day, nothing. The next Monday, nothing. Finally, yesterday, the day before the due date for paying the fine of the second ticket, I call again and still there’s no trace of my check. So, I decide to pay again with the second fine.

But then, when I actually tried to do it, I discovered that I could not do it online because I had to show proof of insurance IN PERSON. No scans or PDFs or anything. So, today, the very absolute last day before I’m delinquent and thereafter considered a hardened criminal, I head out to the Superior Court in lovely Richmond CA, checkbook and insurance slip in hand.

I park on the street a block or so away because parking lot and street are totally impacted. The court building is mid-century Soviet. Recent security measures have been deployed to limit access to one entrance/exit with the usual x-ray machine and metal detector. The first thing that happens is that as I go through the detector, the deputy very rudely barks at me, “Is this your bag? Get rid of the camera,” and boots me out. So, now I’m standing there wondering what to do. Go all the way back home? Or leave my fairly expensive camera and lens in the car, on the street, in a highly questionable neighborhood. Never mind that, as you’ll see, there’s already 200 people with cell phone cameras inside the building.

I go back to the car, get in, start to drive, and turn around back towards the building. A car in front of pulls away, so pull into the curb spot. 2 hour parking limit. I take my camera out and try to put it under the seat, but it won’t fit. So I kind of jam it in a bit and pull the child’s car seat and some paper debris over the top. I tell myself, “it’ll be fine here next to the court house for the 15 minutes I’ll be in there.”

I go back in and through the security check, and swing around to the hallway where the traffic court is. Holy shit! Only 9 am and the line is already the whole length of the long corridor and doubling back on itself. In the first 10 minutes, I don’t move at all. Not. One. Bit. At first, I think I am not going to make it. I’ll be at least two or three hours in this line. But finally, it starts to move. Meanwhile everyone in line is getting to know each other. There’s lots of talk of single motherhood, job situations, etc. Kinda sweet actually. Then there’s this black guy going on about some kind of Jewish conspiracy going all the way back to the Lincoln assassination. Really. Lots of historical detail in play. I gotta remember to look that one up.

Finally, almost exactly one hour after getting inline, I reach a window. The person on the other side was pretty nice and we exchanged some gallows humor. She’s already ready for a drink at 10 am. $304 later, I’m out of there and heading to my car.

Thankfully, the car is intact, camera and all. And I got this swell picture of a tree out of the deal.

Traffic Court 1

I’m ready to sell the car and never drive again.

I don’t think I had ever received a moving violation for anything other than a very occasional highway speeding ticket. But in these hard economic times, the man is out to make some extra scratch for the machine. In my mind that helps explain not one, but TWO moving violations in as many months. I’m just sure of it.  I admit I’m not always a senior-citizen-goody-two-shoes driver, but still…

The first one was for making a left-turn immediately on the green, not yielding to oncoming traffic. But the oncoming traffic was at a dead stop a hundred feet away. It is a common occurrence at this spot because of the unusual shape and depth of the intersection. The officer asked, “Do you know why I’m stopping you.?” I said, “Why, no, I’m not sure.” Getting irritated, he barked, “Driver making a left turn shall yield the right-of-way to all vehicles approaching from the opposite direction.” “Oh, I’m sorry, officer,” I replied. And the ticket is written.

The more I thought about it over the next few days, the more it bothered me. Yield to ALL approaching vehicles? Really? All, with no mention how far away they are or anything? So, naturally I looked it up. In it’s entirety, V C Section 21801 (a) Left Turn or U Turn reads:

21801. (a) The driver of a vehicle intending to turn to the left or to complete a U-turn upon a highway, or to turn left into public or private property, or an alley, shall yield the right-of-way to all vehicles approaching from the opposite direction which are close enough to constitute a hazard at any time during the turning movement, and shall continue to yield the right-of-way to the approaching vehicles until the left turn or U-turn can be made with reasonable safety.

Left Turn

Left Turn

Well, I’m sorry, but I insist the vehicles are not close enough to constitute a hazard, unless maybe its a ferrari that guns it out of the hole. The turn can be made with reasonable safety, especially when the lead driver in the approaching lane is looking off and doesn’t budge when the light turns green. I contested it with a written hearing, but the court was not giving up the $220 easily. So, I that was that. Then, I had to send another check for $54 for the privilege of attending traffic school.

All this and Ididn’t even get to the traffic court part yet. Stay tuned for round two.

Albany Bowl Bar Entrance

San Pablo Ave, Albany CA

San Pablo Ave, Albany CA / © Neo Serafimidis 2011

This is another shot from the Albany Streetscape set but not selected to be included, since I took about three shots of this view. This is the southern end of the bowling alley, where the bar is. I have to admit I like these in black and white, and it is making me think more and more about picking up a medium format film camera of some sort. I’m not sure whether I would produce the Streetscape project in B&W. I like rather like the color. I suppose it will depend on what kind of feel I can get with color, especially printed.

Also, one of the reasons for staying away from B&W is to stay away from overtly calling attention to the “photography” and focus on the documentary aspect of the project. And since the genesis of the project is an examination of the notion that the commercial streetscape is a 1950’s streetscape, I don’t want to prejudice that examination by suggesting something one way or the other in the treatment of the work. The B&W does that.

Interestingly, I have never really been in the bar despite living within a few blocks of it for almost 10 years now. I always end up further down the road at HTC or Mallard. I’ll make an effort to visit this year.